They are named Erzulie, Cousin Zaka, Ogoun Feray. They are the lwas in Creole language, the voodoo pantheon of spirits. They are bridges between humans and the Bondye, the Supreme Being.
The importance of Voodoo belief for slaves deported to the “New-World”
Although Voodoo is a monotheist religion, its followers believe that the Bondye, is distant from its creation and can not be directly contacted for help. Therefore believers venerate lesser spirits viewed as more reachable and known in creole language as the Lwa or Loa (the Laws) or Zang (the Angels). Lwas are classified into two main groups: within the Rada rite, white lwas symbolize the softness and kindness; within the Petro rite, “hot” or “red” lwas are the vindictive and murderous voodoo spirits.
In Haiti, the poorest country on the American continent, practice of religions, whatever Catholic, Protestant or Voodooist, flourishes everywhere. Belief in God is considered a remedy to alleviate the plight of human existence, the plight of disasters that hit regularly Haiti.
Several centuries ago, hundreds of thousands of Africans were brought as slaves to the New World French-ruled colony so-named Saint-Domingue to work in plantations. The majority of them were from the Guinea’s Coast of West Africa and practitioners of Voodoo. Slaveholding system fiercely prohibited the practice by slaves of their original African rite. The survival of the belief systems in the New World was seen by slaves-holders as a threat of encouraging a strong sense of community and patriotism among slaves and therefore, a threat of spreading revolt against their masters. Consequently, slaves were obliged to disguise their Lwas as Roman Catholic Saints in a process called syncretism.
Every year in July, thousands of Haitian from all over the country and the diaspora serve Voodoo spirits and Catholic Saints and receive purifying and chance baths. Covenant between nudity and religious fervour may be surprising. For the servant of the Lwas, bath rids of bad luck.
Voodoo believers bath in a fall to worship Erzulie, the spirit of love and motherly protector
From July 14 to July 16, in the sacred Waterfalls of Saut d’eau located in the center of Haiti, thousands of Haitians take good luck baths. Catholics give thanks to the Virgin Mary who would appear, according to their belief, near a waterfall during the 19th century. Voodooists celebrate in a romantic atmosphere the Lwa Ezili, the spirit of love and motherly protector and the lwa Dambala, the spirit of the peace.
Some enter into a trance, the “danse-lwa“. Candles are placed between the roots of huge trees honoured as resting places of the lwas.
In Plaine du Nord, believers celebrate Papa Ogoun Feray, the lwa of the war
Then from 23 to July 25, pilgrims move to Plaine du Nord, In the northern part of the country. Catholic pilgrims celebrate Saint-Jacques-The Saviour. Voodoo believers celebrate Papa Ogoun Feray, the lwa of the war and of the fire. As the founding spirit of the revolt of the slaves, Papa Ogoun Feray is praised for its power to fight poverty. His followers take mud baths in the Pool Saint-Jacques and kill animals in a sacrifice. I watched helplessly the sacrifice of this muzzled and crying black bull covered with a French flag.
The very cruel killing of this poor animal is a striking symbol in this country where slaves self-liberated from the French colonial rule more than 200 years ago. It says a lot about persistent anger of descendants of slaves against the former colonial power.
With a renewed faith and calmed down mind, believers end their pilgrimage at the seaside city of Limonade
Then, on July 25th, pilgrims go by truck to Bord de Mer de Limonade, not far from there, to celebrate the Lwa Philomène/Philomise and the Catholic Saint-Philomène. Acting as an intercessor, Voodoo priests and priestesses perform communication rituals between the believers and the Lwas. Pilgrims purify their soul and body in the Atlantic waters.
With a renewed faith and calmed down mind, believers end their pilgrimage at the seaside city of Limonade.
